Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
