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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.